Category: back roads
Athens, Ohio…What to do in a college town?
November 8, 2019
Athens, Ohio
Athens, Ohio is a college town in the SE corner of Ohio, nestled against the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. No one knows the population of the permanent residents, but there are over 20 000 students who join them each school year to attend Ohio University. A college town is different from other places of comparable size.
My daughter is a professor at Ohio University so I have had the opportunity to visit this area a couple of times so far. The culture of a college town is quite new to me as a Canadian. I felt like I was visiting a different country. Not all American locations are so different from home.
HIstorical signage 
Entrance to College Green 
Court Street, Athens
Homecoming
Our first weekend in Athens happened to be Homecoming. Several special events were planned for the alumni who came to town. We started the day at a catered breakfast hosted by the business school. Cakes, croissants, hot apple cider, mimosas, and Bloody Mary’s were available. Faculty, students, alumni, and their families mingled on the lawn outside the Business School. Everyone had layers of Ohio University and Bobcats gear to keep them warm on an unusually cold October day in Ohio.
Homecoming Parade
Everyone gathered along the sidewalk to watch the Homecoming Parade. The Marching 110 band led the parade. The ROTC marched close behind, although a few straggled behind to hand out candy to the children along the route. The sororities marched with banners and cheering members. Local groups in town advertised their events and activities. The “Men Who Sing” group added more music to the event.
Community turnout at Homecoming Ohio University gear ROTC marching in parade Not everyone marched Marching Band 110
My favourite group of performers was the Marching 110 Alumni Band. They are former members of the marching band who gather for the Homecoming Parade. They carried their instruments wearing their Ohio University jackets and marched along the route. The drums played. They demonstrated some of their marching band moves, although it was difficult for some of the class of ’69 to get down and back up again.
Drummers kept the beat Alumni band members Doing the old moves Band member 1967-70 Alumni Band Ohio University
Tailgating
My football experience is primarily Canadian, small-town high school. Tailgating before a college game was a new opportunity. We were lucky enough to have acquaintances with a parking pass for the football stadium. Tents set up along our walk provided places for alumni to gather as well as to sell beer as fundraisers for some college groups.
Our hosts provided snacks, drinks, and good conversation. Some people came and went while others stayed until the game began. Police were monitoring this event and one suggested that he didn’t want to notice an actual beer can. Drinks in cups were not his concern. I quickly emptied my fundraiser beer into a cup.
Bobcats Football
Ohio University is a Division I school. Their team played the Northern Illinois Huskies from DeKalb, Illinois. Fans were all adorned in their team gear. We had faculty tickets that were opposite the free student seats. Attendance for the game was 18019.
It was fun to watch. The commercial time outs provided an opportunity for the university to recognize different groups and alumnus. The Bobcat mascot and cheering squad kept the crowd entertained, especially after each point scored the team when they would drop down in the end zone and do the number of pushups that represented the total score for the team. The band was sitting in the stands opposite our seats and played during pauses in the game.
Halftime
Halftime was my favourite. The marching band took to the field and did several songs and interesting maneuvers. Some songs had the band making formations of OHIO. Other times they played and did dance moves on the spot. The musicianship and overall performance were impressive.
The final number included the Alumni band on the field with the current marching band. They performed Best of Both Worlds by Van Halen. The 2 bands numbered over 200 and were very entertaining.
We were cold after sitting on the shady side of the stadium and left at halftime. Unfortunately, the Bobcats lost 39-36.
Athens, Ohio Activities
Golf
Our golf course closed due to snow at the beginning of October. It was wonderful to get to play in the sun and changing leaves in Mid-October in the midwestern USA. Ohio University has a 9 hole course on campus, along the Hocking River. If you booked certain times on-line, you could golf for $10 per person with a cart. The holes had lots of variety. There was some water, sand, and challenging greens, although the course was not as well maintained as our course at home. That did not surprise us for it being late in the year. We played there a few times during our stay.
Athens also has a 9 hole course at the Athens Country Club. It is a private club and you must play with a member.
Ready to play Ohio University Golf Course Bridge to hole 3, Ohio University Tee box #3
Other Activities
A bike/running trail runs along the Hocking River. The trail allows you to visit several Craft Breweries in the area. Little Fish Brewing Company is one of these. I drove there on a Sunday morning for a yoga class. Classes are offered on a donation basis and held outside or inside the brewery when the weather dictates. You can stay for brunch or a beer afterward.
Athens, Ohio is in an agricultural area and there is a large variety of local food products and produce available at the Farmer’s Market held Saturday morning and Wednesday evening on State St. We bought a delicious raspberry Salsa where you could taste each recipe to find the one you liked best.
Restaurants and Bars
The advantage of having a large number of temporary residents is the number of bars, coffee shops, and restaurants. There are several chains like Texas Roadhouse, Buffalo Wild Wings and Applebee’s.
There were also many local restaurants. Casa Nuevo is very popular for Mexican food. We ate there on a Monday night and could only get into the bar as the restaurant was full. Jackie O’s has a taproom with a food truck as well as a restaurant.
Little Fish Brewing Company has a family-friendly outdoor space for food and drink. I loved their Beet Repeat beer with a splash of homemade ginger ale. Their cheese platter was not only beautiful but delicious.
The West End Cider House had a nice atmosphere. Their staff were knowledgeable about the different ciders and cocktails. They make their own ciders from Ohio apples. We tasted a flight where the samples were all different, but delicious. Cocktails are a specialty and their homemade ginger drink was non-alcoholic and really good. This location had a nice little patio that felt European and cozy.
Several of these local gathering places provide live music as well. There are many places that cater to students with smaller budgets where the ambiance and service are not as important. Court Street has lots of these.
Little Fish Brewery offerings Outside beer garden Family friendly Local cheese. Beet beer in the center Casa Nuevo Flight of Cider West Side Cider House patio
Outside of Athens, Ohio
We visited a couple of State Parks within 30 minutes of Athens. The countryside consists of rolling hills covered in forests.
Stroud Run State Park
This park is about 15 minutes from downtown Athens. There is a man-made lake where you can paddle a rented kayak. Many walking and hiking trails can be found in the park. Camping space is also available.
We were there late afternoon in October. It was almost empty. The water was still and the leaves on the trees were beginning to turn colour. It was such a quiet and serene place to getaway. I’m sure a hot summer day would be different, but it is a nice natural area.
Fall colours More fall reflections, Stroud’s Run Stoud’s Run view
Hocking Hills State Park
This park is about 50 minutes from Athens, Ohio. We drove there on the freeway but returned on the backroad, #56, which was very scenic and not too busy.
The area around Old Man’s Cave so impressed me. A deep gorge is the main feature, with naturally formed caves within the cliffs. Only In Your State says, “Hocking State Forest surrounds the state park and nature preserves. Its large boulders, giant tree roots, and abundance of greenery make you feel like you’re traveling to Middle Earth. “
Old Man’s Cave Visitor’s Center has some interesting displays of the history and geography of the area. Washrooms were available as well as maps and information.
We discovered a Sunday afternoon in late October to be extremely busy. The parking lot was full of drivers waiting for others to leave. The trail to the main caves was full of families, singles and couples all enjoying the views, unusual geological formations, and waterfalls. There are other places to visit in the area, but there was a lot to see packed into this small area. I would like to visit again on a weekday when there was more water flowing.
Old Man’s Cave “Middle Earth” bridge Bottom of the Old Man’s Cave gorge Interesting bridge over dry creek bed. Cool and moist at the bottom A bridge above the waterfall A reflective pool seen from the bridge above the gorge. View on route 56 View on route 56 Fall archway on route 56
What to do in a college town?
I have visited Athens, Ohio twice, once in the summer before the students arrived, and once in October. We found lots to do there. I know there are family events and activities as well as several music, art, and beer festivals planned throughout the year. Hallowe’en is a big event in this town.
In conclusion, Athens is in a beautiful part of Ohio. It is a regular small town except for the services that provide for 20 000 extra citizens each school year. There are many ways to stay active, natural areas to visit and places to eat/drink. Add the sporting events, the arts and academic opportunities at Ohio University and you will always find lots to do in this college town.
Abraham Lake-Frozen bubbles “update 2021”
January 29, 2019
Abraham Lake is well known for its frozen bubbles. Here is a guide to visit the area to see them for yourself.
Abraham Lake-Location
Abraham Lake is a reservoir in Alberta, along Highway 11 between Rocky Mountain House and Lake Louise in Banff National Park. Fortunately for me, it is only about 1.5 hours from home. There are some accommodations available in the Nordegg and Rocky Mountain House area if you want to make it a weekend getaway.
There are no outhouses at the lake itself. Get some gas or snacks in Nordegg and use the washrooms there. There are outhouses open in the winter, however, at Siffleur Falls parking lot which is located just a little past Preacher’s Point at the south end of the lake. Allstones Lake staging area and Coral Creek staging areas also have outhouses. Take your own paper and sanitizer, just in case. New facilities are planned for the lake area in the spring of 2021.
The North Saskatchewan River was dammed in 1974 to generate electricity, prevent flooding and hold spring run off from the glaciers. In the summer it is a spectacular teal colour due to the glacial “flour” that reflects the light. Organic material decomposes on the bottom and the methane gas that is a by product of this process rises. In the winter, layers of bubbles from the methane are caught in the ice.
Summer view Abraham Lake 
Abraham Lake in September
This lake is located in such a way that the wind blows between the mountains almost constantly. It clears the ice in the winter and polishes it smooth. The location is also notable for its lack of snowfall in the winter. The moisture primarily falls around the perimeter of the Kootenay Plains Montane ecosystem. The lack of snow, wind-scoured ice and methane bubbles make this area a great day trip in the winter!
Travel warnings
If you do not have experience with ice and snow, then book a trip with an expert. Pursuit Adventures is a company in Nordegg that offers a guide, transportation, lunch and all necessary equipment to make your visit to this area safe and enjoyable. I am not affiliated with this company but have heard good reviews from people who have booked with them.
This can be a dangerous area. There is limited cel service. The nearest hospital is 150 km away and the closest tow truck/gas station is about 50 km. Weather conditions can change very quickly. The wind can howl and cameras and tripods can blow across the lake. A dam controls the water level which can rise and fall below the ice, especially near the shore. There are places where springs and streams run into the lake and disrupt the formation of ice.
Trip essentials
Take ice cleats. These are essential for walking on the lake, but also for walking along the shore. Sheets of ice form as the water level changes. A hiking pole for extra balance may be helpful.
Dress in more layers than you think you will need. The wind blows here, even when it is calm everywhere else. I find that rain pants and a Goretex jacket over my winter coat and fleece pants work well. The rain layer really blocks the wind. Be sure your hat fits snugly so it won’t blow off. As a photographer, I choose mittens where the top flips back to reveal glove fingers so I can manipulate my camera and tripod, then quickly cover up again. Hand warmer packets are always a good idea in the winter.
Water and snacks are always important. On the day that we went, the afternoon temperature was about -2C and we had a wonderful picnic along the river, below the dam. There was no wind, or snow that day.
Perfect picnic spot. River below the Bighorn Dam on Lake Abraham
Tell someone where you are going and when you plan to be back. Be aware of where others are on the lake in case you need some help. Don’t count on your phone, although service is improving in the area. Keep a couple of emergency blankets in your vehicle or camera bag, just in case.
Where to find frozen bubbles in Abraham Lake
When driving from the east, go past the viewpoint pull off and continue along the lake. Continue around the curve known as “Windy Point”. There is a new gravel area for parking just south of Windy Point on the lakeside of the highway. Resist the urge to drive down to the lake. Many drivers get stuck each year or are unable to get back up the hill.
I like to view the bubbles near the new parking area. Others like to view near Cline Landing. Preacher’s Point, at the far end of the lake, has easier access and is a popular spot for viewing although it is less windy so more snow stays on the ice. There can also be open water there due to the river entering the lake at this location.
My most recent visit was north of the new parking area, towards Windy point. Walk along the shore looking for the smoothest access to the lake. There was a point of land that had more snow than ice and was easier to access the lake than climbing over the sheets of ice along the shore. It takes time to trust the ice cleats, especially when walking on a downward slope.
When to visit
The best time to see the bubbles is generally January and February when the ice is frozen solid, clear and without snow cover. This year, people started sharing pictures in late December. My most recent visit was on January 18. It was -1, sunny and without a breath of wind.
This is not an exact science, so the best place to see these marvels of nature can change from day to day. There were many bubble layers visible right along the edge on this visit. Other years we have travelled farther out onto the ice. The lake froze this year during a snowstorm so has more cloudy areas.
Will you see frozen bubbles at Abraham Lake?
The bubbles rise and freeze into the ice in layers. Some are very large and others are tiny. They are so interesting, especially with the dark teal water. If you’re lucky, you can see the gas rising and forming into bubbles.
The ice layer has cracks and was over 30 cm thick when we visited . The sound of water moving under the ice, though, is eerie with a big “whoomp”. There were also pops and snaps that made me worry a little.
Ice bubbles just below the surface. Bubbles in the ice
There are big views of the lake with the mountains in the background. The ice often reflects the mountains . Sunrise and sunset are especially nice when the weather cooperates.
Sunrise at Abraham Lake 
Sunset at Abraham Lake
In the winter, the days are short so you can arrive early for sunrise, take a few bubble pictures, then take a hike at Siffleur Falls. Pursuit Adventures also do guided hikes into this area. Have a hot lunch at the Nordegg Lodge then come back for a few more bubbles and sunset pictures before calling it a day. The full moon rising and reflected in the ice can be impressive too.
Photography Tips for shooting frozen bubbles in Abraham Lake
The aperture setting is best for close-ups of the bubbles themselves. It is a bit of a challenge for the camera to get the focus accurate when viewing through the ice so be patient and keep trying. There was a sprinkling of dust on the ice that I wiped away for close-ups. The sun was shining on the ice which makes it easier for the camera to focus on bubbles below the surface. A tripod is essential.
I used my tripod on its lowest level and kneeled down to view the shot. An extra pair of gloves under my knees kept them warm. Staying low helped me keep a better hold of my equipment so the wind wouldn’t take it away. Setting the camera right on the surface of the ice creates some interesting photos. I also used a polarizing filter, when appropriate, to maximize the colours and reduce reflection on the surface.
A few photos with people or the mountain background in them helps to give a good sense of perspective and context to the location. I have seen some images with people laying on the ice or views of other photographers taking pictures. Some like to take pictures of the sheets of ice pushed up against the shore. These can be used to frame the mountains or sections of the lake. Others use lights to highlight the bubbles at night.
Keep a hand on the tripod. What a view!
View back towards Windy Point
If you are able to visit on a weekday with blue skies and little wind, you will feel like you’ve won the lottery. This area is very busy on the weekends with out of town visitors and even a few tour buses coming to see this natural phenomena. The lake is big, though and it is well worth a visit.
Road trip on the scenic back roads of Montana, Wyoming and Colorado-update
August 22, 2017
This blog post has turned out to be the most visited of all my travel writing. I have updated some of the pictures and verified that the links are all still relevant.
Planning a road trip
As our home commitments finished and summer was drawing to a close, it was time to head out on a road trip for another adventure. Â Our ultimate destination was the White Rim road in Canyonlands National Park in Utah, USA. We booked our campsites there ahead since there are not many available. Â That gave us 5 days of travel time to explore.
We opened Google Maps and discussed the route we should take to get there. We wanted to visit some new places and were okay with a little backtracking if necessary. I hadn’t been to Aspen and Vail in Colorado so we chose to travel through Montana, via Helena, then through Wyoming to Denver. From there we would travel west to Vail and end up at Moab and Canyonlands in Utah. It sort of worked out that way.
Montana road trip
We left home Monday, August 14 and drove to the very southern part of the province. It was quite smoky from the forest fires to the west. We couldn’t see the Sweetgrass Hills that usually signal that Montana is coming up soon.
Montana is a very large state. We have been to many parts of it, but not all. The geography is so varied. With Glacier National Park in the far NW, the high plains of Little Bighorn in the NE, reservoirs and fly fishing rivers as well as cliffs and bluffs in the SE and Beartooth Mountains in the SW, you don’t have to look at the same view for very long. Another good thing about travelling through this state is that the backroads are excellent and have 70 mph limits. The freeway is 80 mph!
We followed the Missouri River for much of the way. Water really brings life to the valley. There were many big farms with outbuildings and fields with an abundance of baled hay. Along the water were fishing lodges and summer homes. The section of the road where the glaciers had cut through the volcanic rock was quite spectacular. It was first described by Lewis and Clark in 1805.
Montana Landscapes
Holter Lake State Park
We chose the road through Helena because it has lots of variety, such as rugged cliffs, shimmering water and the golden grasses of late summer. Holter Lake State Park is just before it at exit 266. We’ve stayed there before and it was our stop for the night. The lake is actually a reservoir and there were many boats filled with fisherfolk. The campground had grassy sites, pit toilets (that are now called vault toilets), drinkable water, and only cost $15/night. We got a spot in the second row from the lake. I got some nice sunset pictures that had extra colour because of the smoke slipping into the state.
Once the sun went down, the stars appeared. The Milky Way was brilliant and filled the sky overhead from south to north. The crickets, yipping coyotes and video game shooting sounds from a nearby trailer were all that could be heard.
I met a couple from Oregon who are travelling full-time in their C Class motor home. They have done it for almost 4 years and are looking for different options like house sitting or long stay somewhere. They liked hearing about our time in Thailand and I had a tour of their unit to see what I would have to leave behind. It is a great research opportunity when you travel and find others at a similar point in their lives. They also recommended we travel through Beartooth Pass.
Campground views
Canyon Campground-Gallatin National Forest
We drove from Helena towards Gardiner on roads that were mostly new to us. About 5 pm we passed a campground that looked to have empty spots. We drove along a little further then decided the closer we got to the park, the fewer sites were likely to be available. We turned around and claimed a site at Canyon campground in the National forest There was no water supply but we had brought our own water jugs and the pit toilet was fine. This site had the Yellowstone River just across the highway, and huge boulders scattered everywhere. It cost $7.
At Canyon Campground, as we were finishing supper, we noticed lots of vehicles driving in and looking for sites. We decided to offer to share our site with another tenter as there was lots of room. We know that feeling of being in a new place and waiting too late to find a spot. Nick and Katie were travelling from Ohio to Portland, Oregon for an internship. They had a ripped tent that we tried to repair with duct tape. We had a lovely evening sitting by the fire ring sharing stories of travel adventures. They were very appreciative of a place to sleep. Travel is about the places you see, but also about the people you get to meet.
Canyon Campground Our travelling home Yellowstone River
Yellowstone to Beartooth
To get to this road, we had to change our plans and head south to Yellowstone, where we have visited a couple of times before, then drive across the loop at the top to get to Cooke City where the Beartooth road begins. We purchased the $80 yearly park pass at Yellowstone, as we can use it in Utah as well.
The road from Mammoth Falls to Cooke City, inside the park, was pretty quiet. The landscape was high plains to begin, then more forested mountains on the east side. We saw many bison in herds, mostly in the valley bottoms. A couple crossed the road in front of us. Several cars just stopped in the middle of the road to look at them in the distance. That gets to be dangerous.
We travelled along the Lamar Valley where many of the wolves from Alberta were released. It was mostly open land with water in the valleys and trees on the hilltops. We looked, but couldn’t see any wolves today.
North Entrance Views to the north Bison crossing! Flyfishermen and bison share the valley.
Beartooth Pass
It is an “All-American Road” and passes from the NE exit of Yellowstone up over the Beartooth Pass at 10972 ft., then winds its way back down the other side. It is about 69 km but with all the hairpin corners it took some time. The views were so spectacular though, I wouldn’t have wanted to go any faster.
We were well above treeline for some time and there was quite a bit of snow still at the top. At one point I commented, “There can only be marmots and pikas live up this high,” just as a marmot scampered across to the other side. The road was first used by some soldiers in the 1880s on the advice of a hunter in the area. The road itself was built in 1936. What engineering! My pictures barely do it justice.
Beartooth Pass
Wyoming road trip
Our trip through Wyoming was different because of our detour to travel the Wind River scenic byway.  We discovered there were roads that travelled mostly north and south from Cody, WY to Vail, CO.  We didn’t have to go all the way to Denver and then backtrack to the west.  It was good that we hadn’t booked all of our accommodations.  It is not as busy later in the summer as many Americans are back in school already so it gave us the opportunity to take advantage of visiting places we didn’t know about.
The roads in Wyoming are also very good. We spent almost no time on the interstates. Wind River travels many km through a beautiful canyon. It was such an unexpected feature in western Wyoming. The cliffs are tall and steep. The water was clear and the shade was nice. We had another drive up to 2250 m where the horizon on the other side stretched forever.
Lots of the state is empty of people and although it is all fenced we saw many more antelope than cattle. Sage and scrubby grass cover the land. The southern part has lots of oil and gas activity. We stopped at a Wal-Mart to use the washroom and I saw a mom and her 3 young boys walking out. Those kids looked like they never took off their hats. They were genuine cowboys.
Wyoming Views
Rawlins Super 8
It was early evening by the time we finished our epic drive over the pass, then drove through much of Wyoming. We knew there were some campgrounds in Rawlins, but when we arrived, they were the parking lot kind that cost $30 and you listen to your neighbours snore, or they have to listen to mine. Those in big RV’s don’t mind, but we are tent campers. There was a Super 8 across the street for $64 with wi-fi, our own bathroom, shower and included breakfast. We had salad and sandwiches from our cooler and made sure everything was chilled in the fridge overnight. After our cheap, but rustic camping on our previous nights of our road trip, it was worth it for one night.
Colorado road trip
We had been climbing in elevation all day yesterday and continued today. Rawlins was over 6000 ft., twice as high as Rocky Mountain House. Colorado took us over another 10 000 foot pass and our campsite SE of Aspen is over 8000.  The 14 000 ft mountains don’t look as big as I expected as the trees grow so much higher up the sides.
Welcome to Colorado More fishermen
Northern Colorado was more green than Wyoming. Â Water must be more plentiful. Â We stayed on the scenic byways and passed through little towns that seemed like towns you only see in movies. Â There were a couple of huge power plants with mountains of coal that had been stripped from the hills where cattle now enjoy the grasses of the reclaimed land. Â We wondered why these roads to nowhere were so good until we saw all the workers at the plant.
When we travelled down the valley south of Vail, the views were so impressive. Even though the mountains are huge, the valley is wide and green. There were hay fields and horses in the pastures. Rivers and wetlands were common. We saw more homes in the country in an hour than we did in all of Wyoming. Our GPS sent us around the wrong side of Leadville which is a “don’t miss” old mining town but maybe another time. We did drive past the old mining town of Granite, which looks like a museum along the road.
Colorado Landscape
White Star Campground
When we stopped for lunch I looked ahead for camping on the way to Aspen. White Star near Twin Lakes seemed the right distance away. It is a state park along a reservoir just before the road to Independence Pass. When we arrived it looked like every site was booked, but as we looked more carefully, there were different dates on the cards listing when they were reserved. As it was Thursday, most were booked for the weekend, or next week during the eclipse. Tonight was not in high demand. This place has lots of space between the sites, pit toilets and drinking water. It was $20 for the night and an extra $6 for a bundle of firewood, which we enjoyed very much.
The skies cleared here after supper and it was a chilly evening. Â The sun went behind the mountain at 7:15 and by 8:30 it was pitch black. Â I enjoyed learning to take Milky Way photos, although I needed my parka and toque to stay outside. Â It was down to 6 degrees Celcius for the night and I slept with almost all my clothes on inside my sleeping bag. Â The elevation is 9200 ft which explains some of the cold in August.
Independence Pass
We managed to find one more scenic byway up over a pass. Â It surprised me to find this road in Trip Advisor. Â It was steep with switchbacks and few shoulders, but it was paved and rose quickly to 12 095 ft. Â We walked a little trail to view the continental divide where the land is tundra here. Â This area of the mountains was popular for mining in the 1880s. Â It was a toll road at that time. Â The views were fantastic. Â The warning signs for vehicles over 35 ft were quite entertaining. Â They started with 35 ft vehicles not allowed. Â The last signs stated
- turn around here
- you will get stuck
- you will be fined
- your trailer will block traffic and make everyone else furious
I may have ad-libbed the last one, but it gives you an idea of what they meant.
The road down to Aspen took longer and had some very narrow sections. We were still at 8900 feet. We passed lots of campgrounds, creeks, areas of rock slides and many cyclists on their way up. Wow!
Aspen, Colorado is a busy place, like a bigger Banff. There were lots of huge homes, old brick and homes, condos and vacation rentals. It has an airport and 3 golf courses but it was too busy to stop there. Gas in Colorado was about $2.50 a gallon. It was $3.59 in Aspen. We can say we’ve been there and the road to get to it was so worth it.
We arrived in Canyonlands, Utah about 5:30 where our next adventure begins.
Canyonlands Camping What a sight!
