Category: roadtrip

Entrance to the Customs at the border when entering Mexico by land with an RV

Entering Mexico by land with an RV

Map showing the road for entering Mexico by land with an RV at Nogales
Route into Mexico

Entering a new country by land with an RV

When travelling to any new country, there is always a lot of homework that needs to be done before you ever leave home. Travel from Canada into the USA is easy for us because we have more experience. This was our first time entering Mexico by land with an RV.

Air travel is much easier when entering Mexico. They give you the forms you need and you follow the crowd through the lines to the immigration and customs booths and soon you find yourself on the sidewalk outside.

I won’t go into all the details about entering Mexico by land with an RV because there are many websites that explain things quite well that will be up to date. I will highlight the essentials. The links I used will be included with a few tips we observed as we crossed the border into Mexico from Arizona at Nogales Mariposa Truck Crossing. We chose this crossing because the roads are more manageable with an RV.

Essential Documents when entering Mexico by land with an RV from (Canada) USA

FMM

The FMM is a visitor permit for citizens from countries that don’t require a visa to enter Mexico. This includes Canada and the United States. You can complete it online and print it ahead of time. It is best if you know when you are crossing the border. I don’t know if the date of entry is essential but I didn’t want to have to pay twice if my online paperwork was not accurate. It cost about $40 CAD online.

You still have to stop at immigration and have the online document approved and stamped. They will keep half of it and give you the other half. Put it away somewhere safe as you have to return your half to Mexican immigration when you leave.

You can complete and pay for the FMM at the immigration office if you choose. It is generally good for 180 days but immigration officers can choose to make it for less time so check it before you leave.

TIP–If you leave Mexico by air after arriving by land, you have to get your FMM stamped at the immigration booth at the airport before surrendering it to the airline prior to boarding. In Guadalajara, this booth was downstairs before the security escalator. When you return by air, you will complete another FMM on the plane. The price of the ticket includes the FMM.

Temporary Vehicle Importation Permit (TIP)

If you are travelling in the Free Zone along the border, the TIP is not necessary. This permit discourages you from leaving your vehicle in Mexico or selling it without importing it into the country. The Import Permit for your vehicle can be completed online but can only be done 10-60 days before crossing the border. We didn’t plan more than 10 days ahead so we had to complete this permit at the border office. Use the information online to have everything you need, and copies of everything required. Many people in line had to leave to go make copies. We had everything we needed.

If your vehicle has a lien on it from a financial institution, the list of documents calls for permission from them to take your vehicle out of the country. I don’t know if this is just an American requirement, but I did not have that document and there were no issues at the border. I will look into this when we get home and update this information.

Be prepared to spend some time getting this paperwork ready and then more time at the border. You will have to pay for the document and also leave a deposit of $500 by cash or credit card. This permit is good for 6 months for vehicles and 10 years for RVs. You will receive the deposit back when you leave Mexico.

TIP– Only one person could present the TIP documents. ItThey have to have their name on the registration. A Canadian driver’s licence is acceptable. Mexico does not require an international licence.

Mexican Car Insurance

Insurance from Canada and the USA does not cover you in Mexico. Even if you are just visiting for a day, you must purchase Mexican insurance before entering the country. We used Lewis and Lewis who had an online application form and quotes from several companies. Check the prices and coverage carefully. Some policies were cheaper for 3 months than for 1. Insurance for our 2018 truck was $327 USD for 3 months. Our 5th wheel was too old and they would not insure it.

TIP– In Mexico, if you are involved in an accident, call the insurance company immediately. The adjuster comes to the scene. If there are injuries, then call the police as well.

Money

Pesos are the currency in Mexico. It is a country that functions primarily on cash. Some of the large grocery stores, Walmart, Auto Zone, etc will take credit cards. Some smaller businesses will take them but add a 3-7% fee for use. Many smaller places, including the toll roads, will only take pesos in cash. The resort areas may be different.

Our bank in Canada needed a week’s notice to order pesos. A bank in Arizona was the same so we took American dollars from the ATM and then used the money exchange at the immigration stop at km 23 south of Nogales. Apparently, there are ATMs you can access in Nogales, just over the border, but with a trailer, we were unsure of the accessibility for our unit.

TIP-When using the ATM, select English. It will ask if you want to use the conversion calculated on the screen or let your own bank do the currency conversion. DECLINE. We found it saved about $32 on a $300 withdrawal by using our bank’s conversion. Also, be aware that ATM machines often run out of money. Try withdrawing a smaller amount, or find a different machine. The machines have a daily withdrawal limit and the fee is the same to take out a small amount or a larger one. Different banks have different fees and allowable withdrawal limits.

There are currency converting apps for your phone that make the transition easier to learn. As the Canadian dollar is worth about 16 pesos, like a mile is 1.6 km, the conversion works much the same as km/hr to miles/hr. 100 pesos is about $6 CAD (like 100 km/hr is like 60 mi/hr). Just picture your speedometer.

Nogales Mariposa Truck Crossing to enter Mexico

Mexico Customs

When we cross from Canada into the United States, and vice versa, the Immigration and Customs departments are together. When entering Mexico, these two departments are many km apart.

We passed through some booths soon after crossing into Mexico. It was challenging to know which was the RV lane. We were waved through at the first set of booths. Stay to the left towards Hermisillo. The right lane goes into the town of Nogales. There is a toll booth that accepted American dollars soon after the border crossing. Sometimes this toll booth is not occupied.

At the next stop (customs) we followed the truck sign. Guards waved us over, although this was a random stop. They checked our truck and RV registration. They took a quick look inside our trailer and asked where we were going and for how long. Personal belongings are acceptable in an RV. They are really checking to see if you are importing items or extra people. We were on our way to Immigration.

Mexico Immigration KM 21

While this should be the easiest part of the trip, it is not. The challenge of signs in a new language, new terrain and a pile of paperwork made this part a little stressful. The address of the Immigration offices are vague. At least the distances and speeds are measured in km.

KM 21 is the address of the immigration office and also the location to get your TIP and dollars exchanged for pesos. We watched a YouTube video of a dashcam view of the trip. After the yellow overpass, the road curves to the right and there is a slight pull off into the the parking lot. The entrance is a dirt road and the buildings do not look like other official border crossing offices.

The man in the office carefully scrutinized our online FMM forms. He divided them in half and gave us our part to keep.

TIP– Print the copies double sided. Pay for each separately if you have more than one person in your group and keep the receipt accessible on your device.

Temporary Vehicle Importation Permit (TIP)

It took us about 20 minutes, which was faster than most of the other people who had to go to the copy office on site and pay for the requested copies. There are benches available as the other members of your group wait.

We also exchanged American dollars for pesos at the exchange booth on site. Pesos or American coins were acceptable for use in the bathroom if you needed toilet paper and paper towels.

We were at the Aduana-TIP for about 50 minutes after arriving at 11:30 on a Tuesday morning in January.

Our journey continues… Stay tuned.

motorhome and 5th wheel parked in a snowy campground

Winter Travel from Alberta to Arizona with an RV

Travelling south to Arizona from Alberta in the winter with an RV

The Canada/USA land border was open. Christmas was over. We had booked our Mexican campground. All that was left was to decide the best day to leave from Alberta. What would winter travel with an RV be like as we travelled from Alberta to Arizona? We had done many road trips in the summer but we knew this would be different.

Packing the 5th Wheel

January 2022 began with very cold temperatures in the -20’s C which made it very difficult to pack the trailer for 3 months away from home. The trailer leg blocks were frozen to the ground. The closed slide blocked our pantry cupboard. Fresh food would freeze. It was just too cold to be outside long enough to take clothing and other necessities to their places.

January 10 predicted a change with temperatures forecast to be above zero. We started up the furnace the day before to warm the trailer. Friends were travelling with us as far as their home in Arizona. They drove a 32-foot motorhome and towed a covered trailer for their desert toys.

Day 1 Travelling in a Winter Chinook- Rocky Mountain House, Alberta to Conrad, Montana. AB 2-I-15 642 km

It was above freezing as we threw in the last of the items, filled the propane tanks and topped off the gas in the truck. The sun began to rise as we turned south and faced into the Chinook Winds. These winds begin in the Pacific and head east over the Rocky Mountains. Moisture is dropped as snow at the continental divide then the air gains energy as it drops down into Alberta. These winds are warm and very strong as they are forced through the mountain passes. They form an arch of clouds over the mountains in the west and really affect gas mileage when a truck towing a 5th wheel is driving straight into them. We were barely 2 hours from home and had to stop for gas.

Although the mountain views were spectacular, the snow blowing straight across the road created traction and visibility issues. We had to use 4 wheel drive to get back on the road after a coffee stop in Claresholm. We saw a trailer in the ditch and semis blown off the road. Winter travel from Alberta to Arizona was looking like a bad idea.

Montana

The border crossing was uneventful. Covid tests were not required at land crossings, and apparently, vaccine records were not necessary as we weren’t asked. The wind continued to buffet us from the SW, although the amount of snow blowing across the road diminished as we travelled further into Montana.

After filling with gas every 2 hours, we arrived in Conrad, Montana. It is a town just north of Great Falls off of the I-15. The Pondera RV Park was open. When we arrived, there was no one to be found. After calling them the owner said, “Are you a trailer and a motorhome? We saw you on the bridge and figured that was where you were headed.” January small town service! Although there was 10 cm of snow on the ground, the power, water and washrooms were available. We paid $42.30 each for the night.

Day 2- Conrad, Montana to Idaho Falls. I-15 to Boulder, MT 69 to Whitehall, MT55/41 to Dillon 658 km

Before leaving, we decided to empty the antifreeze from the lines and add some water to the tank. This allowed us to be self-contained if we had to stop somewhere along the way.

The wind was less and the blowing snow was mostly gone. To avoid the climb over the pass at Butte, we took an alternate route from Boulder to Dillon. We passed a Historical Old Spa at Boulder where we started on route 69. The road was only 2-lane, but passed through some beautiful ranching and fly fishing country. It was quiet and had a gentle elevation change. Monida Pass at the Montana/Idaho border was still a big climb to 6800 ft. but the views were impressive. Lots of snow at the top but the wind was less and the roads were clear.

Snake River RV Park in Idaho Falls is open year-round. It was -9 at night, but our furnace and a tap with a slow drip kept the water lines open. It was $35 with a Good Sam discount and included a spectacular sunrise the next morning.

RV in winter in campground
Snake River RV Park

Day 3 Idaho Falls, ID to Mesquite NV I-15 885 km

We finally were able to stop for some groceries that wouldn’t freeze and more gas then began to actually enjoy our journey. The skies were blue and the temperature ranged from -7 to +7, depending on the passes. Idaho had snow, but it wasn’t blowing. We experienced big elevation changes up and down into valleys and over the Malad pass into Utah.

Utah-Legacy Parkway (ring road Salt Lake City)

As we entered Utah on the I-15 it was a treat to see green fields in the lower areas. The mountains weren’t as clear due to the pollution and all the trucks on the road. We took the Legacy Parkway (215) which was a great option to get away from the traffic of the I-15 and miss half of the Salt Lake City crowds. Big trucks weren’t allowed.

We travelled uneventfully through Utah to St. George at the southern border. We gassed up at Costco. Although it is cheaper, as a Canadian, there are challenges. Costco in Canada only takes Mastercard. In the USA the pumps only take Visa. We have to buy a gift card inside with our Mastercard, then use it at the pumps outside.

We also discovered that just because a car wash says 11 ft clearance, and you can drive inside, it doesn’t mean that the sprayer hose will clear your air conditioner. After trying to remove some of the mud and slush from our first couple of days, the cover of our air conditioner caught on the sprayer. I was able to climb up on top and remove the broken pieces as well as extricate the sprayer. Backing up was the only way we could get out and I had to crawl back down after ensuring everything was clear. Lesson learned…Know exactly how tall everything is on your unit.

A trailer inside a car wash
It says 11 ft

Mesquite, NV

The first place you come to in Nevada is Mesquite. As you leave Utah, you travel through the beautiful Virgin River Canyon. If we had arrived earlier in the day, it would have been a great place to camp. As we were delayed due to our trailer washing debacle, we continued to Mesquite and camped in the gravel lot behind the Virgin River Casino. It was free to stay and reminded us of the importance of having water on board. Our trailer also has a good solar system so we had lots of power as well. Twenty units parked there on that night.

The buffet was a good option after 885 km of driving.

Mesquite, NV to Parker, Arizona 418 km I-15, 167/169 95S

We travelled from Nevada to Arizona to California to Arizona. Each state had a time change.

The morning through the desert was spectacular with the early light glowing off the brilliant red and golden rocks. We took the cutoff on 167/169 to Lake Mead Recreation Area through the Valley of Fire. The road was very quiet and we didn’t have to travel through Las Vegas. And did I mention the views!

We stopped in Henderson for a new AC cover. It took some time but we got exactly what we needed. We headed back out on the 95S to Needles. It was a good 2 lane road and avoided most of the truck traffic heading to and from Los Angeles on I-40.

Lake Havasu, Arizona

Lake Havasu City is beside one of the reservoirs on the Colorado River. London Bridge is located there. It was located in London until 1971 when the masonry from the 1830 bridge was used to clad a concrete structure over a canal. Since we were hauling a trailer through the city, we decided to skip the view of the bridge.

We drove around Lake Havasu and enjoyed the beautiful peaks, following a large body of water and a surprising wetland area at the end of the lake. BLM camping was popular on both sides of the road.

Buckskin Mountain State Park was just before the town of Parker on the 95. We got the last 2 sites. The price was $35 for power and water. Our friends had suggested earlier in the day to get a spot at the state park. It turned out that there is more than one state park and this one didn’t have cel service. When you are accustomed to being connected, I wasn’t sure how to let her know which campground was our home for the night. I was receiving messages, but couldn’t send them. I finally found the wifi spot in the campground and we were able to connect.

The temperature was around 20 degrees C and we finally felt like we were camping. We ate supper around the propane fire ring outside with just a light jacket. We didn’t need the furnace.

Parker, Arizona to Maricopa, Arizona 333 km

Our final day was easy. After a walk along the Colorado River in the campground to stretch our legs, we took quiet backroads to Maricopa, where our friends have a home. We tried the Don’s Famous Cactus Bar in Salome for lunch. Plenty of patrons were in the bar at 1 pm but the restaurant was closed that day. We’ll have to try it another time.

We finished our winter travel from Rocky Mountain House, Alberta to Arizona in the early afternoon a distance of 2936 km (1824 miles) It was 20 degrees with blue skies and sunshine.

A truck and 5th wheel parked outside an adobe home in Arizona
Made it to Arizona

Advisability of winter RV Travel from Alberta to Arizona

My conclusion on the advisability of winter RV travel in January from Alberta to Arizona is that it would have been better to travel in the cold than in the wind. It was a dangerous situation for the first day and part of the second day as trucks were being blown off the road and slush and icy roads grabbed at our tires. We should have waited another 3 days, according to the forecast, until the winds died down. A couple from Edmonton, Alberta that we met in Buckskin Mountain State Park travelled in the cold and stayed in hotels for the first couple of nights until it warmed up. Although it was cold, the roads were clear. Luckily we arrived at our destination without incident.

A view from our road trip of a blue sky, white puffy clouds and rolling tree-covered hills below the highway in North Carolina.

Road trip Atlanta to Blue Ridge Mountains, NC

Road Trip in April

Spring is a beautiful time for a road trip. The first leg of a trip with my sister was from Atlanta to the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina and lasted 5 days. We stayed with friends for 2 nights, in Air BnB for 2 nights and a hotel for 1 night.

For our road trip, we rented a car that we booked ahead with the Alberta Motor Association (part of CAA). Their prices include up to 2 free additional drivers as a standard option. We picked up the car at the Atlanta Airport.

A non-stop WestJet flight took us from Calgary to Atlanta, Georgia. Check the prices carefully when you book. We discovered that the premiere seats at the front of the plane (WestJet’s equivalent of first class) were actually noticeably cheaper than the economy seats for our flight.

Atlanta, Georgia

Atlanta is a hub for Delta Airlines and is a busy airport. We were surprised to arrive at the luggage carousel and find only 2 other passengers from our flight. They were driving to Chattanooga for a conference so my sister and I were the only people from Calgary who were actually staying in Atlanta and not travelling on to some other destination.

Ponce de Leon

I met a resident of Atlanta during my previous visits to North Carolina. She welcomed us to her home for a couple of nights. Her condo building maintains a small suite on the roof that they can book for guests. The roof had 2 large structures that looked like belfries, without the bells. The suites were under these towers and were surrounded by statues of lions looking out over the city. Constructed in 1913, the building has a lobby with stain glass windows and a beautiful circular staircase.

We were located on Ponce de Leon St. in Midtown, Atlanta. It is a mix of old and new with many historical buildings scattered among new builds. There were trees and wide sidewalks that made this a very walkable area. Much of Atlanta was destroyed by General Sherman during the civil war but is a city of about 450 000 today, although the metropolitan area has over 5 million.

Eateries

Bon Ton

We had a delicious meal at Bon Ton. They describe themselves as Louisiana meets Vietnam. The boiled peanuts were a good starter but the smoked snow crab was exceptional. We had charbroiled oysters then finished with a jicama and papaya salad. What a feast to introduce us to the south!

Poor Calvin’s

Poor Calvin’s was within walking distance of our rooftop suite and recommended by our host. They describe themselves as Asian Fusion with Southern Influences. We sat at the bar, which is a great place to meet people, watch the bartenders entertain and get seated quickly without a reservation.

The cocktail list included charring fresh ginger, cardamom and star anise before shaking with gin, lime juice and culantro (a relative of cilantro). An orange rind run through a flame was used to rim a Manhattan. My Curried Seafood was spectacular and my sister’s duck was gluten free. The garnish was not, however, but the kitchen staff came personally to check her meal and make sure it was corrected.

Bab’s

We met a couple of local women at Bab’s, a nearby breakfast/lunch cafe. I asked them what we should do if we only had one day in Atlanta. I was surprised when they replied that there is not really much to see or do in the city. The zoo was mentioned but that was it. It’s hard for visitors to get excited about getting off the plane in Atlanta, when the locals don’t think very highly of their city. My Moroccan Stew with eggs was worth going to Atlanta for brunch.

Sign outside restaurant that states it is dog and goat friendly.

Mercedes Benz Stadium

I wanted to tour the Mercedes Benz Stadium. I watched a program on the construction of this building while living in Cambodia last year and was excited to visit it in person. Although we had a car, we chose Uber to take us. A $7 cost was better than worrying about navigating and parking at our destination.

The tour was $26. We had a guide and 2 more who were in training. There were only 6 of us visiting the building. I really enjoyed it. There is lots of information on the Internet about the stadium, but a couple of things stood out for me. The amount of solar energy they produce from the panels on the grounds is impressive. The building employs 1500 staff on non-game days and 5-6000 people on NFL game days. Concession prices are intentionally affordable and the WiFi capability is unbelievable. There is also an abundance of art decorating the building, including a metal Falcon outside where individual feathers can be seen.

Martin Luther King Jr. Historic Site

As Canadians, we have been less impacted by the Civil Rights movement of the United States. Most of what I know of this struggle has come from books and movies. This is not to say that there is no racism in Canada, but it has not been as visible or organized as in the USA.

We took another Uber to the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site. It was difficult to pin the entrance to the Stadium on the Uber map and the driver had difficulty finding us. The driver was also not sure where to drop us off. Atlanta could improve interest in their city by making obvious tourist locations a priority for Uber drivers.

It was getting late in the afternoon so we only had time to visit the main information building, and not the other sites in the neighborhood. I was so engaged by the displays that I didn’t take many pictures. They included lots of photographs of Martin Luther King and his family as well as video recordings of his speeches. The descriptions and commentary covered his life and the many encounters he had with angry citizens. His visit to India and meetings with Gandhi were the foundation for his non-violent protests.

It is a solemn and thoughtful exhibit telling about Martin Luther King Jr.’s life and accomplishments during an era of massive social change.

There was also an exhibit in the building on the accomplishments of Jimmy Carter. His goals for the people of Georgia and Martin Luther King Jr.’s hopes and dreams have many parallels.

Entrance to Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Site. A stone pillar beside the road at the entrance.

North to the Mountains

Our host in Atlanta gave us a road trip itinerary to get from Atlanta to Brevard, NC. After a delicious southern breakfast at Flying Biscuit Cafe we left the city on I-85. The highway was good and not too busy. The scenery was mostly forest to begin, but soon felt more like the foothills of Alberta.

Woman sitting at a small table with breakfast set out. Avacado toast with a bowl of fruit, coffee and grits with gluten free toast.
Flying Biscuit

Table Top State Park

It was about 150 km to the South Carolina Visitor Center. We stopped to pick up a couple of maps and suggestions then carried on another 85 km to Table Top State Park. We travelled on Highway 11, the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Hwy. The road was good but single lane each way. It was secluded and beautiful. We had clear skies and moderate temperatures.

We checked in at the visitors center and studied the maps of the area. This park was built by the Conservation Corps in the 1930’s and several cabins used by the Corps still exist here. It is popular for hikes to the top of Table Top Mountain. It also has several campgrounds and lakes.

We took a short walk to one of the waterfalls. It was so green and quiet as we were the only ones there for most of our visit.

Bald Rock Heritage Preserve

We turned left off the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Hwy on Geer Highway, also called Highway 276. Bald Rock Heritage Preserve was an easy pull off. We walked out onto a big slab of granite. It was covered in prohibited graffiti that included invitations to prom and declarations of love. The view was a 180 degree vista over the foothills, complete with blue skies and a few clouds. How impressive!

A stone platform with trees and hills in the distance.
Granite slab with a view.

Caesars Head State Park

Geer Highway 276 led us up higher into the foothills below the Blue Ridge Mountains. Just before the pass was Caesar Head State Park. This escarpment viewpoint had massive vistas. Wow!

At the end of the parking lot is Devil’s Kitchen where a set of stairs are built down a narrow crack in the rock to a trail below the cliff. The views from here are also impressive. You can see all the way down to Table Top Rock.

Drive into North Carolina

The road trip continued with many switchbacks through the trees until we started down into North Carolina. We arrived in Brevard, NC which is at about 2400 ft. After a quick stop at a grocery store for a supper salad, we checked into our AirBnb. Jennifer was a fantastic host and treated us like family. We spent the evening watching the mountains from the front porch and were offered lots of suggestions of how to spend our next couple of days in the area.

A land of waterfalls

Dupont State Park

We checked out the local farmer’s market in Brevard and wandered down main street where there was a Porsche Show and Shine. The sky was clear and blue at a perfect 20 degrees.

It was a short drive on Cascade Lake Road to Dupont State Park. We found parking at High Falls Access and hiked for about 5 km along smooth trails with some ups and downs. For a Saturday, the trails weren’t too busy. There were many families and lots of dogs. The waterfalls were large and well worth the walk.

The host at our AirBnB made the kitchen and grill available to guests so we picked up a steak, potatoes for baking, mushrooms and some wine. Our dinner was perfect and another night on the front porch ended a wonderful day.

Pisgah Forest

We left the AirBnB after breakfast and travelled into the Pisgah Forest with our first stop at the Visitor’s Center. Although it was Sunday, the park didn’t seem as busy as I expected. The Visitor’s Center had just opened for the season but the staff were very helpful. We collected maps to see several more waterfalls. Some, like Looking Glass Falls, were just off the road, and others required a bit of a hike in and out.

The trail to Moose Cove Falls was about 1 km each way on a well managed trail. There were boardwalks and a stream controlled by rocks directing it across the path without causing unnecessary erosion. A few families and couples were also in the area admiring the wildflowers and the 50 ft falls.

Sliding Rock

It was a warm day for April at 19 degrees C but the river water was only 13 degrees C. The idea of sliding along the granite slabs and landing in 2 1/2 m of water was not that appealing. There were some hardy souls who tried it but we were happy enough to just sit with our feet in the water and watch.

I imagine that in the heat of the summer, this place must be very popular. A life guard was working weekends and life jackets could be rented from a booth in the parking lot. Our rivers are either gravel or limestone which would not be suitable at all for sliding so this opportunity for a natural water slide was appealing. The cost to enter was $3/person.

Cradle of Forestry

Our last visit in the Pisgah National Forest was to the Cradle of Forestry. We watched a movie and toured the museum displays inside. This is where the first school of foresty in the United States began. Sustainable forests were a new idea in the early 1900’s and foresters came here to learn how to manage forests that had previously been seen as a never ending resource during the industrial revolution.

There was a very interesting display where you had a view of a forest fire from inside a simulated helicopter. There was also a movie related to the building of the Vanderbilt home in Asheville and the landscaper who designed the grounds.

Cradle of Forestry

Blueridge Parkway

Pisgah Inn

The road from the Cradle of Forestry meets the Blue Ridge Parkway so we headed north through arches of trees and switchbacks to the peak of the parkway. We had booked a night at the Pisgah Inn which sits at about 5000 feet of elevation.

All the rooms, including the restaurant, face the view of the mountains and foothills. You can drive to viewpoints to see sunset, but the balcony of each room is a perfect place to see the sunrise.

I got up early and took several photos of sunrise sneaking over the peaks of the hills. It was pretty chilly so I crawled back into bed to warm up. A couple of hours later I awoke and opened the curtains to check out the views. There were none! We were in the clouds and there was zero visibility. I was so glad that I got up to catch the early views. Although the roads were clear a couple of km on either side of the Inn, the sky didn’t clear until nearly 11.

Asheville or Oriental

We considered visiting Asheville and the Biltmore House before heading east to a Girl’s Retreat. The entrance fee was $65 US, which was almost $100 Canadian. We decided that was more than we wanted to spend so got on the interstate, turned on a road trip audio book and drove to Oriental, North Carolina.

This part of our trip was easy and quiet in April. It would be spectacular in October when the leaves turn red and orange. I understand it would be considerably busier on the roads and at all the viewpoints.

Stay tuned for the next installment of the road trip from Oriental to Savannah, Georgia. It was less about nature and more about history, although equally enjoyable.

layers of frozen methane bubbles in frozen lake with view of mountains in background

Abraham Lake-Frozen bubbles “update 2021”

Abraham Lake is well known for its frozen bubbles. Here is a guide to visit the area to see them for yourself.

Abraham Lake-Location

Abraham Lake is a reservoir in Alberta, along Highway 11 between Rocky Mountain House and Lake Louise in Banff National Park. Fortunately for me, it is only about 1.5 hours from home. There are some accommodations available in the Nordegg and Rocky Mountain House area if you want to make it a weekend getaway.

There are no outhouses at the lake itself. Get some gas or snacks in Nordegg and use the washrooms there. There are outhouses open in the winter, however, at Siffleur Falls parking lot which is located just a little past Preacher’s Point at the south end of the lake. Allstones Lake staging area and Coral Creek staging areas also have outhouses. Take your own paper and sanitizer, just in case. New facilities are planned for the lake area in the spring of 2021.

The North Saskatchewan River was dammed in 1974 to generate electricity, prevent flooding and hold spring run off from the glaciers. In the summer it is a spectacular teal colour due to the glacial “flour” that reflects the light. Organic material decomposes on the bottom and the methane gas that is a by product of this process rises. In the winter, layers of bubbles from the methane are caught in the ice.

This lake is located in such a way that the wind blows between the mountains almost constantly. It clears the ice in the winter and polishes it smooth. The location is also notable for its lack of snowfall in the winter. The moisture primarily falls around the perimeter of the Kootenay Plains Montane ecosystem. The lack of snow, wind-scoured ice and methane bubbles make this area a great day trip in the winter!

A winter scene where the mountain is reflected in the lake. The ice is so smooth, it looks like water.

Travel warnings

If you do not have experience with ice and snow, then book a trip with an expert. Pursuit Adventures is a company in Nordegg that offers a guide, transportation, lunch and all necessary equipment to make your visit to this area safe and enjoyable. I am not affiliated with this company but have heard good reviews from people who have booked with them.

This can be a dangerous area. There is limited cel service. The nearest hospital is 150 km away and the closest tow truck/gas station is about 50 km. Weather conditions can change very quickly. The wind can howl and cameras and tripods can blow across the lake. A dam controls the water level which can rise and fall below the ice, especially near the shore. There are places where springs and streams run into the lake and disrupt the formation of ice.

Trip essentials

Take ice cleats. These are essential for walking on the lake, but also for walking along the shore. Sheets of ice form as the water level changes. A hiking pole for extra balance may be helpful.

Sheets of ice push up against the shore.
Ice sheets left after water level is lowered by the dam.

Dress in more layers than you think you will need. The wind blows here, even when it is calm everywhere else. I find that rain pants and a Goretex jacket over my winter coat and fleece pants work well. The rain layer really blocks the wind. Be sure your hat fits snugly so it won’t blow off. As a photographer, I choose mittens where the top flips back to reveal glove fingers so I can manipulate my camera and tripod, then quickly cover up again. Hand warmer packets are always a good idea in the winter.

Water and snacks are always important. On the day that we went, the afternoon temperature was about -2C and we had a wonderful picnic along the river, below the dam. There was no wind, or snow that day.

Tell someone where you are going and when you plan to be back. Be aware of where others are on the lake in case you need some help. Don’t count on your phone, although service is improving in the area. Keep a couple of emergency blankets in your vehicle or camera bag, just in case.

Where to find frozen bubbles in Abraham Lake

When driving from the east, go past the viewpoint pull off and continue along the lake. Continue around the curve known as “Windy Point”. There is a new gravel area for parking just south of Windy Point on the lakeside of the highway. Resist the urge to drive down to the lake. Many drivers get stuck each year or are unable to get back up the hill.

frozen lake with mountains in the background
Preachers Point parking area with open waer and snow covered ice.

I like to view the bubbles near the new parking area. Others like to view near Cline Landing. Preacher’s Point, at the far end of the lake, has easier access and is a popular spot for viewing although it is less windy so more snow stays on the ice. There can also be open water there due to the river entering the lake at this location.

My most recent visit was north of the new parking area, towards Windy point. Walk along the shore looking for the smoothest access to the lake. There was a point of land that had more snow than ice and was easier to access the lake than climbing over the sheets of ice along the shore. It takes time to trust the ice cleats, especially when walking on a downward slope.

When to visit

The best time to see the bubbles is generally January and February when the ice is frozen solid, clear and without snow cover. This year, people started sharing pictures in late December. My most recent visit was on January 18. It was -1, sunny and without a breath of wind.

This is not an exact science, so the best place to see these marvels of nature can change from day to day. There were many bubble layers visible right along the edge on this visit. Other years we have travelled farther out onto the ice. The lake froze this year during a snowstorm so has more cloudy areas.

Bubbles of methane, looking back towards the highway.

Will you see frozen bubbles at Abraham Lake?

The bubbles rise and freeze into the ice in layers. Some are very large and others are tiny. They are so interesting, especially with the dark teal water. If you’re lucky, you can see the gas rising and forming into bubbles.

The ice layer has cracks and was over 30 cm thick when we visited . The sound of water moving under the ice, though, is eerie with a big “whoomp”. There were also pops and snaps that made me worry a little.

There are big views of the lake with the mountains in the background. The ice often reflects the mountains . Sunrise and sunset are especially nice when the weather cooperates.

In the winter, the days are short so you can arrive early for sunrise, take a few bubble pictures, then take a hike at Siffleur Falls. Pursuit Adventures also do guided hikes into this area. Have a hot lunch at the Nordegg Lodge then come back for a few more bubbles and sunset pictures before calling it a day. The full moon rising and reflected in the ice can be impressive too.

A frozen waterfall in the mountains with cliffs on either side and a few trees at the top.
Siffleur Falls in January

Photography Tips for shooting frozen bubbles in Abraham Lake

The aperture setting is best for close-ups of the bubbles themselves. It is a bit of a challenge for the camera to get the focus accurate when viewing through the ice so be patient and keep trying. There was a sprinkling of dust on the ice that I wiped away for close-ups. The sun was shining on the ice which makes it easier for the camera to focus on bubbles below the surface. A tripod is essential.

Layers of white bubbles rise in the water and are trapped in the ice.
Bubble close up
tripod on frozen lake
Tripod set up on a day without wind

I used my tripod on its lowest level and kneeled down to view the shot. An extra pair of gloves under my knees kept them warm. Staying low helped me keep a better hold of my equipment so the wind wouldn’t take it away. Setting the camera right on the surface of the ice creates some interesting photos. I also used a polarizing filter, when appropriate, to maximize the colours and reduce reflection on the surface.

Bubble close up

A few photos with people or the mountain background in them helps to give a good sense of perspective and context to the location. I have seen some images with people laying on the ice or views of other photographers taking pictures. Some like to take pictures of the sheets of ice pushed up against the shore. These can be used to frame the mountains or sections of the lake. Others use lights to highlight the bubbles at night.

If you are able to visit on a weekday with blue skies and little wind, you will feel like you’ve won the lottery. This area is very busy on the weekends with out of town visitors and even a few tour buses coming to see this natural phenomena. The lake is big, though and it is well worth a visit.

View of Abraham Lake near parking area south of Windy Point