Category: travel

A regular day in Chiang Mai…and what the heck is a bum gun?

Not every day is filled with festivals and Wats.  Some are just a regular day in Chiang Mai.  I’ll get to the bum gun part later.

Errands on my own

Chiang Mai Photographic Group

I finally feel like I know my way around well enough to venture out on foot by myself.  I walked a couple of km to the Chiang Mai Photographic Group on Wednesday night.  There were about 15 members in attendance, mostly from Europe.  All were men, except for Malonie, another new member from British Columbia, and me.  We spent the first part of the evening watching some video tips on using Lightroom for photo editing.  That is one of my winter projects already, so I was glad for the new ideas.  There was also a little discussion on equipment.  I can’t believe the number of lenses and cameras some of these people have.  I have 1 body and 2 lenses but I’m still pretty new to this.

We spent the second half of the evening looking at photos that everyone had brought to share.  They were on a large screen and a couple of the members led the discussion.  The pictures were shot all over the world, including Thailand, and some of them were spectacular.  There seems to be quite a lot of time spent editing to make the pictures perfect.  They also commented on being past taking pictures of monks, wats and food buthat won’t deter me from continuing to take pictures of the things that make Chiang Mai interesting and unique to me.

I shared a shot of Moraine Lake from June and one of Mt. Assiniboine from July.  The critiques had been pretty specific up to this point, but they didn’t have anything to say about either of them.  The thing I liked was that both of my pictures had almost no editing done to them.  I know how to take mountain pictures and they are such a good subject to work with.  I will certainly learn a lot from this group as long as I keep an open mind and don’t take the feedback too personally.

Camera Lens Repair

I have had problems with my zoom lens recently.  The auto-focus motor doesn’t always seem to turn the focus ring properly and it makes a terrible squeal. A  club member suggested a repair place and had a name and address sent to me by facebook by the time I walked home. I looked it up on Maps and it seemed to be just over 2 km from here.

Prepared for action

Prepared for action

I am retired, after all, so I didn’t have anything more pressing to do. I headed off, armed with my hat, water bottle, sturdy shoes, money belt and camera-toting day pack.  Most importantly, I had a small paper map and the location on Google Maps on my phone, as well as a screenshot of the route in Google Keep.  Maps uses a lot of power and heats up my phone, but I had an extra charger pack which was useful later in the day.

It takes a lot of energy to walk in Chiang Mai.  I will have some pictures on another day of all the things you find on the sidewalk here, but suffice it to say, sidewalks are not meant for pedestrians.  Wheelchairs or walkers would be impossible. Almost everyone here travels by scooter.  You often have to step onto the road to get around scooters and food carts parked on the sidewalk, or step into the traffic lane to get around a parked car next to the impassable sidewalk.

The pavement is uneven and the curbs are high.  You see many tourists with bandages on their knees, me included.  This happens when you start to look around too much and miss a high spot, a low spot, or a starfruit fallen from the tree hiding in the leaves.

Observations from my walk

Although walks here are not opportunities for reflection like they are on the walking trail at home, I did notice a few things.

  • Scooter riders here look completely at ease, even when riding with a baby sitting on the driver’s shoulders with mom holding her in place from behind
  • Some streets just have a row of tailors, working in rooms open to the street.  Some of the hand work was done by people sitting on the floors
  • Other streets have a row of hair dressers, one shop after another
  • In Thailand you take your shoes off before entering a home.  I saw a Ballroom and Latin Dance studio with a pair of shoes left outside.  What do you dance in?
  • Walking through lanes of cars stopped for a light is not only acceptable but recommended
  • A man with a disfigured foot limping down the sidewalk had the biggest smile and hello for me
  • Just when you realize you are the only white face in a neighborhood, someone will suddenly approach you in a red shirt with CANADA written across the front.
  • The neighborhood around the mosque sold more headscarves and served halal food in the restaurants
  • When you get lost and wander down a dead-end lane and end up in someone’s yard, no one seems concerned.
  • There are some  quiet boulevards that look like they are from any North American small town with traffic moving one way on each side with small stores alongside.
  • The western style grocery stores will offer to check your other bags for you while you shop
  • A fruit vendor with ice-cold bags of cut up papaya appears on a seemingly deserted street just when you need a little sustenance

AV Camera and Lens Repair

I overshot one street but did find the repair store.  He tested the lens and declared he could fix it for about 1900 baht, or $70.  That seemed a lot better than a new one.  His assistant spoke a little more English and made up an invoice and wanted a phone number.  I have a phone number here, but only a small credit on my plan to use it.  I have unlimited data and wifi at the apartment so I asked her to email me when it was ready.  After lots of Thai/English, Thai/Thai back and forth, I determined that the best way is to Facebook message them and they will use Facebook to let me know when it is ready, but I did record their phone number, just in case.  I was glad I had the recommendation from the Photo club.  It’s the kind of issue anyone in a new place must face when leaving their personal things with someone.

I returned a headset at the mall for Peter.  It took 3 young clerks to understand my gestures that we had a computer with a single hole for headset/microphone and their headset had 2 separate plugs.  I did apologize for not knowing more Thai.  The service was wonderful.  One of the staff took me to the customer service, offered me a chair and waited with me until the transaction was complete.  Tourists are exempt from some of the VAT so I had to provide the picture of my passport as well to make sure the totals were correct.

After one more stop for milk and a Thanksgiving gift of a package of English White bread of only 4 slices in a package, I walked to a main street looking for transportation home.  A tuk tuk was stopped at a red light so I ran across 3 lanes of traffic and piled in.  He dropped me right at my gate for $3.78 or 100 baht.

Google Maps timeline

Here is a copy of my travels.

Found inside Google Maps app  on my phone under timeline

Found inside Google Maps app on my phone under timeline

You can see where I got lost, the dead end lane and the journey in the tuk tuk.  I actually walked a little farther than it shows, but the route is accurate.  This feature is in the Google Maps app under timeline.  You can see each day on a calendar.  In a new place, it is great to see where you have been each day.  Sometimes we forget names of places we want to return to and can find them on these maps.  You can add notes of your own and confirm the places you were.  There is a list below the map for each part of your journey. When I enter the locations I want, Maps gives me the distance in km so  I’m not sure why this timeline map is only in miles.  Fortunately, I am still bilingual in metric and imperial. Except for the overheating issue with Maps, I don’t know if I would feel so confident heading out on my own in a country that speaks a language not familiar to me.  Many of the street signs are only in Thai so navigating with just a map would be so much more difficult

Bum Gun

This is not related to my walk, but it is not really related to anything and it came up in our apartment Happy Hour group discussion yesterday.  Take a look at the pictures from our apartment bathroom (and really any bathroom we have seen in Chiang Mai).  See if you can guess how barbaric toilet paper is compared to this system.

Have you got it?  After describing the squat toilets in China, and thinking that was going to be the way of toilets in all of Asia, we were pleasantly surprised to find this set up in our apartment.  There is a sign on the elevator for newcomers that is very clear that toilet paper is not to be put into the toilet, at all.  I had heard that before we left and wasn’t looking forward to having a garbage can open in our bathroom for that.  We were also told to bring toilet paper with us since the apartment didn’t provide any.  I did that, but still.

Once I saw these hoses in all the bathrooms here, I finally googled Thai toilet hose and got the instructions I needed.  What a wonderful tool.  In our apartment, only the shower has a hot water heater.  All the other taps send out room temperature water.  That is great for the bum gun here.  I talked to a Californian who found one on Amazon under diaper sprayer and had it installed in their bathroom at home.  I’m not sure I want the cold water of the North Saskatchewan coming through that hose at our house though.  It would be a pretty quick rinse with some descriptive language I imagine.

 

Wat Doi Suthep- Temple on the Mountain

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View at the top

The Loy Krathong Festival was so fun and interesting but it wasn’t the only thing we did while Jane and Steve were visiting Chiang Mai.  We also travelled up the Doi Suthep mountain to visit the temple, Wat Doi Suthep.

Crowds in Chiang Mai

Before I share some more spectacular pictures of this golden wat, I wanted to clarify something that people commented on from an earlier post.  Several people thought they could never wander out with so many people crowded around.  That is the thing about Chiang Mai.  The people here are kind and respectful to each other and to the visitors.  That attitude seems to rub off on the farangs (tourists) as well.  The lantern and krathong releases were exciting but not crazy.  It was not just a drunken gathering.  There were police in sight but I never saw them needing to do anything except move people back from the corners where the floats needed to turn.

We missed a turn on our walk back to our apartment from festival day 2 and ended up on some unknown back streets (soi). We walked over 3 km and it was after 11 pm but felt completely safe.  There were lots of locals gathered around the food carts finishing off the day’s product. We stopped in a couple of chairs for a little rest outside a shop selling purses .  Right away a gentleman offered us a drink menu from the bar next door.  People worry more about the odd stray dog at night than they do the people.  I’m working on a post on the sidewalks and streets that will give you an idea of what we see and have to watch for when we walk.

Doi Suthep

Chiang Mai is up in the hills of Thailand at an elevation of 1020 feet.  We can see forested  “mountains” all around the city.  Doi Suthep is the one of the highest with its summit at 5250 ft. There is a national park on the mountain with hiking trails and waterfalls.  We haven’t visited those areas yet so that will be the topic of another conversation.

Buddhism in Thailand

Monk walking on the Iron Bridge

Monk walking on the Iron Bridge

I don’t pretend to be an expert in Theravada Buddhism, but I have learned a few things that help me understand the purpose of the many  wats (temples) for which Chiang Mai is famous.  Although it is based on Buddha’s teachings from India, it also includes ideas from Hindu, Tantric and Mahayana influences, like the worship of Buddha images. The belief of spirits, magic and astrology are also common in Thailand.  The Thais, however, believe that the strength of their country comes from Buddhism. the monarchy and nationhood.

Thais believe in reincarnation and to reach the stage of enlightenment, or nirvana–the ultimate state of being, they need to earn merit in whatever life they are presently in.  This can be earned by becoming a monk, which most boys do for some time during their life.  Giving food to a monk or having a monk bless a home or child-naming can also earn merit.  Being kind and respectful to others also count, as does leaving offerings to Buddha.  We’ve seen small banana baskets with food or flowers left on the sidewalk, or hung from a wall.

Offering left on the sidewalk

Offering left on the sidewalk

The Buddhist rules that apply visitors have to do with being respectful.  Visits to a temple expect your shoulders and knees to be covered.  I brought a scarf and bought some wrap around skirts to use for this purpose.  You also take off your shoes before entering a temple or anyone’s home.  Women may not touch a monk, or even sit next to one on public transportation.  The head is considered the most sacred part of the body so you are not to touch anyone’s head.  The feet are the lowest, least sacred  part so you never point your feet at someone, especially a Buddha statue.  Think of the lotus position with feet tucked away. It is very disrespectful to put your feet up on a chair or table, or close a drawer etc. with your feet.

Wat Doi Suthep

The Wat on the mountain  was supposedly chosen by a White Elephant.  In the 1390’s the king’s elephant walked up the mountain, trumpeted and turned around 3 times and the site was selected.  It is near the summit of the mountain and can be seen from the city, shining from within the forest.  Fortunately there is a paved road all the way there.

Getting to Wat Doi Suthep

The most common way to get there is by songtaew.  You can take one from the city to the Chiang Mai Zoo, then transfer to another one that takes a group of people up to the top.  It costs about 80 Bhat, or $3.00 to get there.  These vehicles are open in the back with sliding windows behind the benches.    The number of tune-ups they undergo is questionable.  The road is steep and full of switchbacks.  The exhaust blowing into the back and steady back and forth made feel quite queasy by the time we got to the Wat.

Songthaew. Passengers sit in benches along the side of the box.

Songthaew. Passengers sit in benches along the side of the box.

Upon arriving, we had 304 steps to climb to arrive at the actual temple.  The steps were brick but the railings were a Naga, the serpent protector of Buddha.  There a couple of pre-school girls in traditional dress on the bottom steps posing for pictures.  I didn’t see their parents, but apparently someone was collecting money for those who wanted to make a donation.  Those girls sat there all day in the heat.  I don’t know of any kids from home that would be that patient.

The climb was shaded and once at the top we took our shoes off and began to look around.  The Central Chedi was completed in the 16th  Century and is gold plated.  The filigree umbrellas on each corner are covered with gold leaf by pilgrims.  It is so bright from all the gold that it is hard to look at some of them.   One of the buildings had murals depicting the life of monks from the past.  There were many statues of Buddha.  His hand positions can symbolize reassurance, connecting to the earth, meditation or justice, to name a few.

 

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Visitor Behaviour

The thing that disappointed me about this beautiful Buddhist temple were many of the visitors.  Foreign tour guides were yelling at their clients with stories about the wat.  Girls were doing jump pictures.   There were signs to remind people to be quiet but you couldn’t see them through all the selfie sticks.  At the same time, people were doing meditation walks around the chedi, hanging bells with good wishes on the eaves and being blessed by monks.  Many areas were for people on their knees saying prayers.  It is real place of worship.  I would not expect to see the same people behave this way in a cathedral or even a church.   I felt a bit embarrassed being there at all.

What’s next?

I’ve started adding a few more pictures under the travel heading in the menu at the top.  This will be an ongoing process now that I know how to do it.  Check back.

There are no immediate plans for any visitors, so for now we continue to explore the area and enjoy the retired lifestyle of “Let’s see what the day will bring.”

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Jane, Peter and Steve

 

A Personal Tour of the Great Wall of China and a little lunch!!!

I’ll let Peter share his version of our arrival in Beijing Airport and I’ll start at the part where we actually meet up with Michael and Grace that I talked about previously.  They had graciously agreed to give us a personal tour of the Great Wall of China and then take us out for lunch.  Our outbound flight for Chiang Mai didn’t leave until 6 pm and our luggage had been forwarded so we had all day.

Journey to the Wall

It was about 6:30 am when we left the airport.  We headed off in their Toyota Landcruiser to Mutianyu.  This is a restored area of the wall that is north of Beijing.  This is not the most famous views of the wall, but it is not as busy.  Michael and Grace live in southern Beijing so they had not been to this one either.  It is not as popular, and therefore they felt it would be less crowded.  There was a clear blue sky and the temperature was around freezing.  They said it was the first clear day in about a month without cloud and high levels of pollution.  On the way there, I was amazed at how easily drivers just go with the flow.  Scooters, bicycles, pedestrians, cars, buses and even donkey-pulled carts all seemed to coexist with relative ease.

Traffic near Beijing. Lanes are just a guideline.

Lane markings and left turns on green lights just seemed to be guidelines. Fortunately the traffic was travelling at a reasonable speed so adjustments could be frequently made.

 

Need a toilet in China?

In the USA you ask for the restroom.  In Canada you ask for the washroom.  In China and Thailand you ask for the toilet.  At the visitor center at MuTianYu the stalls were marked poddy or squat.  There were a couple of poddy stalls which were regular toilets for tourists but the majority of the stalls contained toilets where the porcelain bowl is below floor level.  You stand on either side and squat to prevent you from having to sit on a seat touched by someone else.  There was toilet paper in the hand wash area, but none in the stalls.  Fortunately my hiking pants have a regular emergency stash.  The paper is disposed of in a basket, however, and not in the toilet as we are used to at home.  These squat toilets flush, but some places have a pail of water nearby and you are required to add your own to flush it away.

The Wall itself

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We took a shuttle bus up to the top of the road, then wandered past the market stalls which open at 7:30 am.

Marketplace at the entrance.

Marketplace at the entrance.

A chairlift took us to the top of the ridge where the wall followed the rugged hilltops as far as we could see in both directions.  This section of the wall was originally completed in 1404 to protect the resources and rich trading center of Beijing from invaders from the north.  There are watchtowers with 360 degree views at regular intervals.  They have perfectly arched doorways and windows. There was also some housing for soldiers with separate quarters for the general.

The top of the wall itself is much wider than I expected.  You could drive a carriage along it, except for all the steps.  The spectacular fall colors, crisp clean air and clear blue skies only added to the experience of standing on a all that is over 600 years old.  It was designed to be functional but it is beautiful as well as it follows the hills for thousands of km.

The four of us walked up and down hundreds of steps, admiring the views and construction from many angles.  I had decided to check my tripod in our luggage because I expected to have way too many people around to use it effectively.  It was getting busier when we left about 11 am but I have many pictures without anyone in them.

We finished our visit with a toboggan ride down the chairlift hill.  The plastic sleds had brakes on them that worked really well.  I was surprised how much control I had.  There were a couple of ladies ahead of us who were much more nervous about gaining any speed so we often had to stop and wait for them, but it was fun nevertheless.

Photo Gallery

Click on individual photos to see in a larger view

Back to Beijing

We drove past small farms and orchards on our way back to the city.  There were many little shops set up along the road and many people doing manual labor in the fields.  Micheal and Grace shared with us about the discrepancy in lifestyle between the country and the city.  Housing in the city is becoming very expensive, however, so many young adults either live with their parents, or their parents have to help them buy a house.  Rent is not relatively as much, but most people want to own their home.  We also saw lots of large company buildings.  The majority of the signs we saw were in Chinese and in English as this country tries to develop a more global image.  Even though the Chinese speak in many different dialects, their written language is the same for all.

Hadilao hot pot restaurant

We parked below a shopping area in a northern section of Beijing.  There were many security people whose job it is just to direct people in the parkade and watch the vehicles.  We saw many more people working here, in the restaurant and at the Great Wall attraction that we would see at home.

The 5th floor is all restaurants and we waited in the lobby of the Haidilao Hot Pot Restaurant for a table. While you are waiting you can have your nails touched up, your shoes shined or a game of chess, all for free.  We got a table right away so didn’t get a chance to advantage of these services.  The service we received once seated was quite amazing.  I guess in China, only exclusive private restaurants offer much for service  This franchise wanted to treat everyone very well.

The waitress brought us aprons to wear over our clothes and covered our coats on the back of the chairs with a heavy cloth to keep them clean.  She even left a little glass cleaner package for Michael and I.  Grace and Michael ordered off an ipad.  The waitress brought us plates of thinly sliced beef, kidney and mutton, shrimp, tofu, mushrooms, large slices of potato, strips of kelp, slices of cow’s third stomach, a bowl of some kind of greens and finally a bowl of raw duck’s tongue.

Two large pots of soup were placed into a well in the center of the table.  One was spicy and one was more plain.  All the other items were cooked in the broth. We filled a bowl with a variety of items chosen to flavor our cooked food.  Some of the flavors were familiar and many were not.  There was garlic, sesame oil, crushed peanuts, spice mix, chili peppers, just to name a few.  I wished I had taken a picture of the other items because by the time we worked through the meal, I was too overwhelmed to remember.

We tasted a rice “wine” that was 55 proof, and some Chinese beer.  It was quite a mild flavored beer but that is all that is available in China.  Michael said that he had tried several craft beers when he was in Canada and preferred them.  The waitress also brought us a Chinese drink that tasted like thick iced tea and another drink that was creamy, warm and kind of purple colored that is made from beans.  We spent a couple of hours trying everything.

Just before we left home I saw a quote by Anthony Bourdain from CNN who talked about eating in another country required you to apply the Grandma rule.  “Eat whatever is on your plate, ask for seconds, smile and say thank you.”  That was the rule we applied and to our surprise we had a delicious lunch.  We were delivered back to the airport by 4:30 with plenty of time to go through security before our flight to Chiang Mai.

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Video clip from lunch

 

The truth about sleeping on a plane and how we got on the Great Wall of China

Experimental Selfie before take off.

Experimental Selfie before take off.

Sleeping on a Plane

I follow @JohnnyJet on Twitter.  He offers travel tips and ways to save money on travel. I have appreciated many of his suggestions, except for a couple on this trip.  He tweeted  his views on how to sleep on a plane.  They made so much sense as I read them.  Bring slippers or cozy socks.  He talked about business travellers changing into pajamas for the flight, then changing back into their suit just before arriving.  He shared his views on using a sleep aid like melatonin as something that might make you too dopey in case of an emergency.  Since we had a 12 hour flight from San Francisco to Beijing that left at 1:30 am, I was so ready to try all of these ideas.

Now I have to say that the suggestion to have noise cancelling headphones was fantastic.  I found some Bose comfort 20 in ear headphones.  They were expensive at $279 but I can use them for everyday music listening and they really did cancel the engine noise on the plane.  This plane still used the double holes for the headphone plug.  Bring an adapter if you have one.

I also brought a neck pillow.  It’s old but it clips onto my day pack and is filled with little beads.  I saw some at the airport that were inflatable that would take up less space, but I haven’t tried them for effectiveness.  A light neck scarf helped me when the temperature fluctuated on the plane.  Air China provided us with a small pillow, that I kept in the small of my back, and a blanket. I had brought a pashmina to use as a blanket or to pad the armrest, and it would do double duty as a wrap in Thailand if I had to sit in air conditioning too long.

The cozy socks were an epic fail.  I did take my shoes off, but once the plane takes off,  you can’t get at your feet to put anything else on.  Maybe passengers in business class can manage it, but I couldn’t.

The thing I would add is to put all of your sleep-on-the- plane items in one mesh or plastic bag.  You can then pull everything out and leave it under your seat while your carry on or day pack goes in the overhead bin. Otherwise, 12 hours is a long time to sit with a big bag stuffed in the little place where your feet are supposed to go.

We sat in a window and middle seat so one could lean against the wall, as recommended, but our aisle seatmate fell asleep at takeoff and awoke 8 hours later.  He didn’t drink a single thing on the plane and never had to get up to use the bathroom.  I hate to wake someone up, but there is no way to get out of an economy row otherwise.  Getting out to change from pajamas to clothes would be right out of the question. We are sitting in the 2 aisle seats in the center section when we return, which should solve that problem.  Even 2 seats together in the center section gives you 2 options to exit for a stretch.

And lastly, take a full water bottle.  Those little cups they serve don’t hold nearly enough to keep you hydrated for your adventures, even if you do have to get up and use the washroom as a result.  I must admit, however, that I did sleep for about 6 hours of the flight.  They served dinner at about 3:30 am but I had a pretty decent nap after that.

Our plane took off for Beijing on time and I was surprised at the flight path.  It followed the coast of North America, crossed over the Aleutian Islands and flew through Russia to China.  I guess it is shorter over the northern part of the globe and this route was reassuring as we were always fairly close to land.

Going to Beijing

I know you have been wondering why we flew to Beijing on our way to Chiang Mai.  It is story on its own, but I have other stories ready that come later so I am combining this one with the flight.  The main idea is that you just never know how things will turn out when you talk to people.

We met Michael and Grace in September in Kicking Horse campground near Field, BC. They were from Beijing and were camping for the first time ever  Their stove and fuel bottle didn’t match so they wanted to cook over the fire.  The problem was wet wood, no ax and no fire building skills.  Grace saw our fire and came to borrow our ax.  The way she picked it up showed definite inexperience so Peter-Bachelor of Phys. Ed. in Outdoor Pursuits- offered to help. Grace had stumbled upon the best fire maker in the campground  They enjoyed the fire but cooked their meal on our back up stove, which we sent with them for the remainder of their trip through the Rockies and all the way to Yellowstone.

They returned the favor by cooking us a Chinese breakfast the next morning.  We had fried eggs with soy/fish sauce, smoky pork sausages, pickled kelp and noodle soup, which isn’t breakfast food usually but it was on this day.  When we explained our plans to travel to Thailand, they invited us to visit if we came to Beijing.

The most suitable flight for us from San Francisco included a 13 hour layover in Beijing, China.  I thought that was enough time to either sleep or go out and do something. You can book tours to the Great Wall from the airport.  I emailed Michael and Grace to see if this was the best use of our time and they offered to pick us up and take us there themselves.  That is how we got a personal tour of the Great Wall of China on our way to Thailand and that is the subject of my next blog.