Tag: sunset

Sun setting below the palm trees with a boat in the foreground. Ripples in the river reflect the colors.

Hoi An… Well worth a few days in Viet Nam

Our trip to Viet Nam had several stops, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Hoi An. As it was very close to the border between the former North and South Vietnam, it did not sustain much damage from the war. Hoi An is well worth a few days when in Viet Nam to see all that it has to offer.

Lodging…Gia Vien Homestay

Looking back, the real highlight of our visit was our homestay, Gia Vien and especially our host, Linh. I booked it on Booking.com after a recommendation from some friends. It was easy to make contact with the host to arrange pick up from the airport, as well as add some extra days and order daily breakfast for $2 each. We paid for our stay when we checked out.

Linh and her family live in this home and rent out 5 rooms to guests. She spoke English well, her smile lit up the room and she liked chatting with us as a way to improve her language skills. We had a room with 2 queens which was cozy and clean for the three of us. We were served breakfast at our convenience, which included a bacon and eggs option or traditional Vietnamese soups such as Quang noodle or Cau Lau. Chewy Vietnamese buns and a plate of wonderful tropical fruit were served every morning. The banana pancakes served on our final morning were exquisite!

Our host also arranged our excursions. We visited Me Son, the Eco Coconutt Cooking School and a spa. She suggested a local restaurant for lunch and sent us in a taxi through the rain to visit her tailoring shop. She also did a load of laundry for us . Our 4 night stay with breakfast, excursions, laundry and transportation to the airport cost $260. We felt like we were in a 5 star hotel.

Location

Gia Vien was within walking distance to the old historic city. We could have used available bicycles to ride to the beach, but we found enough to do along the river in the old streets. Taxis are inexpensive but are not allowed to drive into the old city. Keep in mind that Hoi An does not have its own airport so you will need transportation from Da Nang, which is about 40 minutes away, although Uber is an option if your hotel doesn’t provide transportation.

Hoi An old city

Hoi An used to be a port city. There are many old buildings that represent the Chinese, Japanese and Dutch sailors that originally settled here. A ticket allows you to visit 5 of these structures. Check out Travelfish.org for detailed information on what might pique your interest, as well as more about the history and activities in Hoi An. This site is very comprehensive and is my primary information source on South East Asia travel.

We visited Chinese medicine shops, newspaper offices, assembly halls and warehouses for shipping goods. The arches represented earth/man/heaven. Most buildings had rooms in the front and an open courtyard in the center for light and air circulation. The kitchen and bathroom were located in the back. One that we visited had a 6th generation family member still living in the house. He gave us a tour of the building.

The hand carved furniture, screens and trim were spectacular. The dark wood was beautiful. They used pulleys to lift supplies to the upper level. The back of many of these buildings opened to the river to access supplies, which were then sold from the front. There continues to be water issues as the river regularly floods due to rain, or dams opened upstream without warning. We could see old flood levels up to the 2nd story floor.

Blue and white ceramic discs covered the Japanese bridge that was built in the 1600’s. The bridge must be very sturdy to hold all the people we saw.

Pottery Museum

The Hoi An Pottery Museum provided a helpful audio tour. The building was beautiful and the pottery samples very interesting. This local pottery from the 1600’s was found in Japan, Syria and Egypt. It’s hard to believe that travel was so widespread in those times.

Vietnamese coffee

We found a rooftop coffee shop that gave us a good overview of the old part of the city near the Thu Bon River. It was our first taste of Vietnamese coffee. The lower cup contains sweetened condensed milk. Locally grown coffee is ground quite fine and water is filtered through the grounds into the milk. It has a chocolate undertone. It was sweet and rich, although we preferred it diluted with a little more water. This coffee is consumed hot or over ice. These little coffee filters made a good souvenir to bring home.

Many tourists were enjoying the coffee and the view of the walking streets below. Many others were talking selfies and ignoring the wonderful coffee and the interesting views. Late in the afternoon was a very busy time and the street below was filled with tour groups and cyclo tours trying to weave between the crowds.

After wandering the streets and admiring the fantastic light on the river at sunset, we went to the White Marble Wine Bar to celebrate a family accomplishment. They served celebratory Prosecco and a sample platter of Vietnamese finger foods. They also had a delicious cheese tray. You can find most any food you want in this city, or most Asian cities, in my experience.

Full Moon Festival

The French colonized Vietnam in 1887 when they won the Sino-French against China. That explains the french bread, good wine and many French-Colonial buildings in Vietnam. It also explains the Catholic churches we saw in Hoi An.

The most popular religions in Vietnam, however, are Vietnamese Folk Religion and Buddhism. We had the opportunity to observe these beliefs in action at the Full Moon Festival since the full moon is a time to meditate, observe rituals, reflect on life and honor deceased relatives and ancestors.

Lanterns decorate the streets every day. The city turns off electric lights for a time during the full moon to create a special atmosphere. Sellers along the river sell paper “boats” with candles. The boats are released into the river by locals and tourists alike, hoping to bring good fortune and hope for health and happiness. I’m not sure what good fortune it brings to the environment further downstream.

This evening is a big draw for tourists who can arrange boat rides down the river. The restaurants and bars along the river are full of visitors. We did see some locals offering their own prayers and treating the full moon festival as a real spiritual event and not just an event for visitors.

My Son

We took a day excursion to My Son-(Me Sawn). It is an area of Cham temples near the mountains from the 4th to 13th centuries. Instead of mortar, plant resin was used to connect the bricks together. Areas of the temples damaged in the war were restored with cement. It is not as strong and moss and plants are growing in between. Restoration is done now with a kind of tree resin, but it is not as good as the original from centuries ago.

There is evidence of bombing craters amongst the temples, which celebrate the Hindu Gods of Brahma-the Creator and Vishnu-the Preserver, and Shiva-the Destroyer. Brahma, the Creator. Some of these temples were only discovered 10 years ago. UNESCO designated these temples a World Heritage Site in 1999. The fee provides pathways, clean bathrooms ad restoration. Japanese and India are paying to restore this area as well.

Itinerary

My Son is on a smaller scale than Angkor Wat, but the views at the top were beautiful. We were up in the mountains with jungle views. A bus took us from Hoi An to the main parking area at the temple site. An electric cart took small groups to the temple site. The area was clean and well maintained. We had a guide for the day who did know quite a lot about the area but his phone kept ringing and he would just stop the tour and talk in Vietnamese for awhile, then continue with us. He also explained about the “American bombs” many times throughout the day. The couple from Virginia decided they would be Canadians for the day. Most of the people in our group were Europeans.

We took a bus from our homestay to the site, then took a bus partway back. There were lots of rice paddies and villages along the way. We travelled the rest of the way on a boat which included lunch. This was a pretty lackluster meal by Vietnamese standards, but there was lots of soya or hot sauce to add flavor to the vegetables and rice.

Tailoring

One of the popular activities in Hoi An is to visit a tailor shop and have clothing made to measure. Since our host ran a tailoring shop with her sister, we wanted to check it out. Lihn sent us to the shop in a taxi, which was on the way to the historic city. Her sister helped my daughter choose a suit design from a catalogue. She then chose a fabric and lining material. After all the measurements were taken, she was told that she could try the suit on that evening! The cost for the suit was about $120 US.

She also had a fancy dress and 2 summer dresses made, based on examples already made up in the shop. Everything was sewn to order. The casual dresses were closer to $20. My husband had 3 short sleeve shirts made for about the same amount. I chose a top from the catalogue, then fabric and matching trim. Lining and buttons were added. The tailor added darts to the back and adjusted the sleeves so it fit really well.

Linh has 10 tailors working for her and the quality of the fabric and the stitching was top quality. They made changes until we were happy with the results. A tailor on a moto even stopped by our room one evening to check the fit on the suit pants. Being in Hoi An for 5 days meant we had time to get everything right, and still spend our time seeing everything that we wanted.

Shoes

I also had a pair of shoes made to order but they were too loose in the heel when I went to pick them up. They had been remade and were perfect when I returned the next day.

Hoi An…Well worth a few days

Since we had 4 nights in Hoi An, we had time to discover a few more fun things to do. Linh booked us into a nearby spa for a mani-pedi that started with a luxurious soak in water infused with lemongrass and flowers. We snacked on Vietnamese coconut crackers that were delicious. The spa offered to sell a box of them to a Korean woman and her 3 daughters who had just finished having massages. She bought 10 boxes! Such good customer service. I bought my own at the airport. They were great gifts for my gluten-free family members.

We also discovered the T Room Gin Bar a block from our homestay.The seating was outside in a lovely green garden space. A local woman owns it , but our server was a British woman who teaches hotels how to do proper customer service. She was excellent.

The locally infused gin were all half price because it was winter. I had cucumber, black pepper and fennel while my daughter had rose and cardamom. They also had pomello and vanilla, or longan with lime.

Take time to relax

Hoi An is an old city with modern surprises. It is clean and calm. You cannot smoke in the old city and Baroque music played softly from the loudspeakers scattered throughout the area.

Sometimes it is nice to just sit and watch the world go by after touring old buildings and temples, getting new clothes made or eating and drinking delicious local foods. It is a city well worth a few days visit while in Viet Nam.

I’ll describe our day cooking at Eco Coconutt Cooking School in another post. Here is another post on cooking in Thailand.

Krabi and Ao Nang…A holiday from our holiday

Krabi and Ao Nang

I will get back to our visit to Siem Reap shortly but for now we are in Krabi, Thailand. Our hotel is in the Ao Nang area.  We came here to experience the beach life of Thailand, to escape the smoky air of Chiang Mai and best of all to meet with our daughter, Melissa, who came for a visit. It’s a 2 hour direct flight from Chiang Mai and cost us about $175 return for the flight.

There are lots of beach towns and islands to visit in Thailand.  We talked to many people before deciding on Krabi.  It is not as popular with the party folk and is fairly well-developed for those of us who can backpack, but don’t necessarily want to.  It was easy to get to for a 5 day visit.

Accommodation

Finding a place to stay was more challenging than I expected.  Agoda, the Thai on-line booking company, showed lots of places as not available, although word is that they had limited rooms, not the hotels.  The majority of places only have beds for 2 people, either 2 twins or 1 double.  We would have needed to book 2 rooms for the 3 of us.

We found a place called Oscar Villa that had a family room with sleeping space for 4, a little kitchenette and a pool view for about $65/night. It was about 4 km from the beach so it took us awhile to figure out the transportation.  The hotel provided free shuttles to and from the beach 3 times a day.  You could call the office and go or be picked up any other time for 200 baht (about $7.50) per family.  They had a restaurant at the main office which was a couple of blocks away.

Customer Service

We didn’t take advantage of their activity planning until later in the visit.  Peter and Melissa went kayaking the last day. They arranged the booking for them, the transportation, stored our luggage for the day and picked us up at the beach for our trip to the airport in the evening.

The customer service was very good.  They really want you to have a good experience.  Pete got bit by some caterpillar thing that was sharing the back of the bench with him.  The gardener made a big show of killing it with his shoe, then brought over some ointment to rub on his arm to prevent any itch.

Ao Nang Beach

The Andaman Sea is warm and clear.  A peninsula protects the beach at Ao Nang from the Bay of Bengal. Phuket is on that peninsula. The area has recovered from the tsunami, although many big resorts rebuilt along the coast and took over some of the nicest public beaches.

The view is dotted with limestone cliffs, stone karsts and longtail boats.  It really does look like the views you see in the travel books.  The islands that you can visit may have promotional pictures of their beaches from 10 years ago but they are considerably busier now.  They are still so beautiful though.

Things to do in Ao Nang

  • Sit on the beach.  There are trees to provide shade until afternoon.  There are hawkers for bamboo mats, cold drinks, dresses, jewellery, massage deals, and even fresh cooked corn.  That man even had a charcoal bbq with him.

 

  • Swim in the ocean.  It’s sandy on the bottom and clear.  Watch for jellyfish. Someone thoughtfully fished one out with a big palm leaf and left it up on the sand where it was easily seen.  Roped off areas protect the swimmers from the boating area.
  • Take a long tail boat to another beach.  You buy the tickets at the beach access.  Railay beach is about $7.75 or 200 baht return and takes about 10-15 minutes in the boat.  It was low tide when we got there so the beach wasn’t that nice, but the cliff views were worth the trip.  There are lots of shops and eating/drinking spots there.

  • Find a rooftop bar for happy hour.  That’s all day for many places.  We really liked the Tom Yum restaurant near the big sailfish statue.  It’s upstairs on the roof next to the Family Mart.  The staff made sure we had cushions to sit on, shade or a fan and the view of the water is through the trees that give the shade.  Their mojitos are delicious and are on sale for 90 baht or less than $3.50 each.  They put fresh-cut pineapple on their Hawaiian pizza.  The places on the beach that are south of the main drag are more expensive.

  • Have a massage or mani/pedi along the beach.  Head south along the beach and keep going until you find the row of massage places.  They are open to the beach and most have mattresses on the floor.  We had picked up a flyer earlier in the day on the beach so we went looking for #12, Jan’s Massage.  Peter had an hour aloe vera massage plus his nails trimmed.  Melissa and I had a mani-pedi which included having our feet scrubbed and nails painted.  The entire process occured with us lying down on the mattress.  The women moved themselves to where our nails were. We spent 1100 baht which is about $40 for an hour of bliss for the 3 of us.

mani/pedi by the beach

  • Book a table at the Hilltop Restaurant.  It is at the northern end of the beach up in the hills.  The food was quite good, the service was fine and the sunset views behind the islands were spectacular.  We also enjoyed the live music. One other highlight was witnessing a wedding proposal while we were there.  They offer a free shuttle service to/from several local hotels.  Ours was not in their zone, but they picked us up at the Sailfish statue by the beach.  Sunset from the beach is pretty nice too.

  • Watch the clam diggers at low tide…moms, dads and kids.

Island Tour

The highlight of most people’s trip to Krabi is a day trip to some of the islands.  There are many options so I am glad we talked to others who had been here.  You can book a tour to the closest 4 islands, a tour to the Hong Islands or a tour to Phi Phi Island. You can travel by long tail boat or speed boat.  To read more details on the pros and cons of the tours and the mode of transportation, check out these two sites.  Travelfish boat and kayak tours and YourKrabi.  We found them quite helpful.

Although this is still high season here, it was not as busy as we expected.  We didn’t want to spend our island tour day on someone else’s schedule so we opted to book our own private long tail boat to the Hong Islands, just for the 3 of us.  It cost 3000 baht which converted to $114 CAD for the day.  The group tours cost 700 baht each but include lunch. We came into town early, had breakfast, and bought a couple of take away sandwiches for our lunch. We bought our  boat ticket when the booth opened at 8 and were taken to our boat right away

Thoughts for next time

Although the day was fantastic, I know a couple of things I would do differently.  I understood that the drivers travelled the same route as the tours, just on our time schedule.  I should have been more familiar with the tour route as I would have liked to spend a little time snorkelling at one of the off shore stops instead of just along the beaches.  When I asked what was next, he just replied, “whatever  you wish, madam.”  I should have known better what I wanted.

The other thing we learned for next time is that we could have bought our boat ticket the night before.  Then we could have left even earlier and beat all the crowds. Regardless, the day was terrific.

Hong Island

It took about 45 minutes by long tail boat to get to Hong Island.  The water was like glass so it felt more like a lake than the ocean.  We saw other long tails and speedboats as well as some dive boats and large catamarans.  We had benches to sit on under a shady cover.  The motor is loud but the ride was smooth.

Our boat was the 3rd to arrive for the day.  We paid our marine National park fee of 300 baht each and ogled the smooth white sand and teal water.  The cliffs were steep around the bay with a large rock formation splitting it into 2 parts.  The background was all jungle.  Areas for the swimmers had ropes and there was a big boat parking lot.  The driver told us to stay as long as we wanted and let him know when we wanted to go. He recommended about 3 hours if we wanted time to see the other areas.

Hong Island Facilities

This is the largest area on this tour so the facilities were good.  There were lifeguards and parks people to remind the idiots not to feed the fish.  Toilet facilities were clean and included a water filled area to walk though to remove the sand from your feet. There was also a restaurant and a place to buy snacks and drinks.  You could rent kayaks to travel around the island, or into the cove.

Although we stayed for 3 hours, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the dock had people coming and going, but the beach or swimming area never felt crowded.  It was a good place for families with children.

We swam and snorkelled.  There were bottles of vinegar in posts along the beach to use as an antidote in case of a venomous jellyfish if necessary.  There were also signs with warnings of what to look for.  The water was clear and I saw several varieties of fish.

Other stops

We left about noon and travelled around the island to a lagoon that is in the center the opposite side.  It was high tide so the boat could enter.  The water was a beautiful green color with high cliffs all around.  We toured around the inside at a nice slow pace and took lots of pictures.  At low tide you can only enter in a kayak, but apparently, the colour is even more intense.

We travelled to 2 more islands.  One had a small beach with more cliffs and more fish to see.  The other had a long sand section joining 2 rocky sections.  There was a mushroom looking rock in the bay that had a lot of coral just past it.  The textures and fish were worth the sunburn I got on the back of my legs.  Much of the other coral I saw was dead.  I don’t know if this is still a result of the tsunami, or from development and all the boats in the area.

It took about an hour to return to the beach in the long tail.  It was 4 o’clock and we so appreciated our tropical paradise.

Kayak Tour

Melissa and Peter took a half day kayak tour north of Ao Nang at Ao Thalane.  The trip in the back of a songtaew to the boat launch was uncomfortable, but the time on the water was just what they hoped it would be.  They paddled in a group of 10, led by a guide.  Included were water bags and drinking water.

The current took them along for much of the ride. They travelled through mangrove trees, over a small stretch of open water and into steep canyons that had once been limestone caves until the tops caved in.  Stalactites were still visible.  They spotted some monkeys in the trees, but fortunately none came for a closer look.  This route is only available at high tide.  Coffee and fresh fruit were available after the trip concluded.  At a cost of 500 baht, or $20 CAD, it was a fantastic time.

Holiday from our holiday

It was a great place for a holiday from our holiday.  It was also nice to choose a late flight home where we could get a quick ride home and not have the 2 hour drive through the snow and darkness we usually experience after a tropical holiday.

I have included some photos here in the blog but look for others in the travel menu.